Polarizers used in cinematography are often inserted in a matte box so there's an opportunity to insert a circular pol backwards and it doesn't polarize when inserted incorrect.
Circular polarizers for cinematography are marked to show proper orientation, but mistakes happen. If you have no mirrors or reflective surfaces in your system, such as a mirror or a beam splitter.
So if you are asking the question: "Do I need a circular or linear polarizer? Lindsey Optics offers both circular and linear polarizers in professional cine sizes in 4. A question we often get is: "Should I purchase a linear polarizer or a circular polarizer?
The Problem: The main problem that the circular polarizer addresses is cross polarization on other reflective surfaces in your system such as mirrors and beam splitters. I would recommend shooting at 90 degrees to the sun for maximum effect. You can easily gauge this by facing the sun, your left and right shoulders will then face at 90 degrees, this is where polarization will be the most effective. Shooting directly towards the sun will quite often have no impact on saturation or cloud detail at all.
So to recap if you are shooting sky's, expect to see more cloud detail and more saturated blues at 90 degrees to the sun.
Another great way to use a polarizer would be to cut through haze within a landscape. Essentially haze is water vapour. Water vapour reflects light and a polarizer will help to cut down on this reflection as the light is scattered.
Again the direction of light is critical for getting the best results. Whenever facing directly into the light your polarizer will struggle.
If you are needing to cut through haze, think about composing your shot in such a way that the polarization takes maximum effect. Trial and error is probably the way to go here. So both of the techniques talked about above have their limitations, but where the polarizer really comes into its own, is for woodland photography and water photography.
In the woodland quite often we are faced with a lot of glare, this glare comes in the form of light reflecting from shiny leaves, sometimes this can be intensified in wet or damp conditions.
As the light is reflected from the foliage, this white light will stop the camera actually recording the details in those areas, overall it will reduce the quality of the image and make it less saturated but more contrasty. Using a polarizer in the woodland is a great way to cut through this reflection, saturate the colours and give a much more balanced feel to an image. Probably the biggest impact a Circular polarizer can have on an image is when we use it to cut through the reflections on the surface of water.
This can be great for seeing details below the surface and give the water a richer more saturated look. So if the polarizer is such a fantastic tool, wouldn't it be worth just leaving it on the lens for good?
Well not really! All of these techniques are great, but what we really need to think about is whether or not it helps the composition of the photograph we are taking. Had I used a polarizer here, I would have lost all of these wonderful autumn reflections?
Had I used a polarizer here, maybe that haze would have been reduced and its that separation between the foreground tree and the background trees that makes this shot work. So having a clear idea of the look you are trying to achieve, is critical to getting the best results. If you are undecided, as is often the case with me, simply take a shot with polarization and one without.
That way you have both bases covered. So now we have covered what a circular polarizer is good for, let's look at a few reasons not to use it at all. So when photographing sky's we have to be really careful that we don't get uneven colours within the blue areas of the sky itself.
This will be accentuated the wider you go with your lens. Once you get below 24mm on a full-frame camera, expect to run into big problems regarding darker patches in your sky. I would suggest that if you are thinking about using a polarizer to increase saturation or to make clouds pop, would it not be better to do this in post-production.
Adding a graduated filter in lightroom with a little saturation and clarity can pretty much achieve the same results with less room for error. I wouldn't use a polarizer for shooting panoramas. Having darker areas in your image will make Stichting really difficult, so definitely avoid them if you are thinking about a pano. Again I wouldn't use a polarizer if I am shooting directly into the sun, the effect will be minimal and you are more likely to introduce lens flare and ghosting in the image.
Another thing to remember is when using a polarizer we are adding another glass element to the front of the lens. If we are paying many hundreds or thousands of pounds for a lens, the fewer things we put in front of it the better.
I would say, only use a polarizer if it improves the quality or the composition of your image. Using a polarizer will affect your exposure too. A polarizer can reduce the amount of light entering the sensor. The polarizer I use decreases my exposure by around a stop. This may means you will need to bump up your iso if you are shooting handheld or even use a tripod if the light levels are already on the low side.
Probably the biggest thing to consider though - does using a polarizer help your composition. I want to end with the same statement I started with: every landscape photographer should own a circular polarizer. Become a better photographer, starting today. The Circular Polarizer helped remove the distracting reflecting light from the wet surfaces. The Circular Polarizer was used to enhance the colors in the green foliage.
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